February 23, 2016

Not sure that today's adventure will have you in stitches the way yesterday's did but....we're working on it!

Kicked off the day with a hot water shower and as simple as that may sound...when you haven't had one in a few days....it's a big deal!  Breakfast at our hotel (included) was a delicious start to the day.  We both had local Ilocanos fare - Lynda's was Vigan Longanisa (a local sausage), an egg, and a cup of rice.  Mine was Beef Tapa (little pieces of fried cow or possibly caribao (more about what a caribao is later), an egg, and a cup of rice.

At exactly 9:00 Berto was at our front lobby and our tour was underway.  Lynda and I had already discussed and decided that I should try the back of the bike rather than scraping myself up getting in and out of the little sidecar opening.  Berto was game for the change and voila I was perched atop the back of his bike with my right foot inside the sidecar (as Lynda had deduced as the best position the night before).  It was so much easier to get on and off vs in and out - I was a happy camper!  The hidden bonus of all of this tricycle business is that it sure is an incentive to lose a couple of pounds and build a little muscle at the same time!  Hard to do when you're headed out on a day of touring where there is food calling to you at every corner!

Berto was an amazing host for our day and by the time we were done in and ready for a rest (3:00 p.m.) we had visited two museums (one of which used to be the provincial prison), one church and bell tower (with 120 steps up and same number down!), a pottery studio (more on this later), and an amazing restaurant (for lunch) that features only local dishes.  The restaurant is called the Hidden Garden and has won awards for it's Ilocanos fare as well as it's unique setting.  It's name represents it well...it is a veritable maze of gardens, nooks, and crannies.  There are wishing wells, benches set up for photo opps, cages full of colourful birds, and tiny little water features to capture your imagination.  On top of all of that...it boasts a bathroom that is so beautiful we were compelled to take photos of it!  Loose natural black stones covered the floor, rustic bamboo mats covered the walls, and a one way mirror offered a view from the toilet that rivalled any reflective garden I've ever seen.  It truly was one of a kind!  Our lunch consisted of Poqui Poqui (an eggplant and onion dish) and a rice noodle dish with little pieces of fried pork.  Of course there was the accompanying bowl of rice and all of it was delicious.  We managed to talk Berto into joining us and the total bill for three people with enough leftovers for Berto to take home to his family for dinner (including fresh coconut and pineapple shakes for Lynda and I) was just under $20.

Back to the bell tower for a little background.... The Catholic church that it is adjacent to is one of the oldest in the region (built in the 1500's).  Lots of damage during WWII but all except a small section were repaired and the church is still in regular use today.  The part of the church that was left in ruins from wartime is identified as a separate little outdoor chapel and it actually was my favourite part of the place.  The bell tower has done double duty as bell tower ringing in births, deaths, and other special occasions and the regions lookout during military times as well.  It is set atop a hill to start with and then when you consider that there are 120 steps higher than the top of the hill...it has a pretty good view!  Another tidbit for you is the the tower (and pretty much every old building it sounds like) is made of thin handmade clay bricks and the mortar is made from egg whites, molasses, lime, and sand.  How did they ever figure that recipe out?!  Everything is still standing strong so I guess they knew what they were doing.

The museums were interesting and the one that used to be the provincial prison has been completely redone to house some very famous paintings that depict the conflict during the Spanish occupation.  There were a few cells left in tact and from what we could see....there was no way anyone would ever be able to saw through those bars but....the cells were actually very very large and given that they had doors that opened onto windows into the courtyard....they didn't look half bad (not that I want to find out what it might be like to stay in a Philippine prison!). On that topic....here is a little bit of trivia for you..... You can't get your drivers license till you're 18 here.  At that time you can get a learners permit for 6 months after which time you can get your drivers license.  But....if you get caught driving before you're 18 you have an automatic 3 days in jail and a 10,000 peso fine AND....you can NEVER get your drivers license.  Needless to say....no one drives prior to 18!  Unless you're on a major highway no one is allowed to wear a helmet as helmets provide anonymity for criminals.  Vigan is wonderfully clean and feels very safe even though there are no stop signs or directional signs.  It is respectful drivers behaving very courteously with right of ways and overall I guess you could say it is organized chaos.  Although....Lynda is thinking she might like to challenge the drivers license and then I'm not so sure the chaos would be organized any longer. LOL

The pottery studio was a highlight for both Lynda and I as it was soooo interesting and like nothing either of us had ever seen before.  We entered the darkened building that was actually more like a warehouse...it was huge!  We picked our way across the dirt floor that was strewn with planks of wood and wound our way between piles of pots in all stages of doneness.  (WCB would have a heyday here!) As we drew deeper into the darkened building we began to see something that looked kind of like a tunnel that was 1/2 above ground and 1/2 below ground.  It ran much of the length of the building and as it turns out it was the kiln.  Hundreds (maybe even thousands) of pots and bricks were placed in there to await the next firing which would last for at least two full days and then another two days would have to pass before anyone would be able to enter the kiln to begin to retrieve the fired pots.  I cannot begin to describe the size of this operation....it is massive....and....there is just one man who is the potter that throws all the pots on a big old kick wheel.  He told us that he throws 50 posts per day and we watched him go from one pot to the next the whole time we were there.  As well, he can throw a pot (approximately a foot high) in three pulls and from there it is just a little shaping to get the perfect form.  Truly an artisan!  Remember I said I'd tell you more about the caribao...well....this is where that part of the story comes in.  Caribao are what I would call a water buffalo or an ox.  We got to see a caribao at this pottery studio as it too has a job there.  It's job is to mix the clay, sand, and water that the potter will use to make the pots and bricks.  When I first heard this I assumed the oxen would be attached to a yoke and walk around in circles mixing the big vat of stuff with some kind of wheel etc....but no.....it is nothing like that.  This caribao actually climbs down into the massive vat of muck and uses his feet and legs to do the mixing!  One of the men who work there lead him around to ensure he gets into all the corners but can you imagine?!  That caribao actually climbs into that pit that is about 12 feet in diameter and supposedly loves every minute of it!  I love travelling and seeing/learning new things!

The pottery studio is actually where I'm going to give you your chuckle for today too.  I'd like you all to take a minute to recall that most famous scene from the movie Ghost that involves a pottery wheel and two people.  You guessed it...Lynda climbed in behind that artisan and played Demi to his Patrick.  I thought the potter was going to pee his pants he was laughing so hard!!!  There were a few other visitors who had come into the building by that time and they too had a good giggle from the show.  I'm pretty sure that Berto was wondering just what he'd gotten himself into by that time!

Speaking of Berto....what a nice young man he is.  Everything is "yes ma'am" or "no ma'am" and I'm positive that if either of us asked him to jump off a bridge for us he would do it.  He has a wife and two kids.  His daughter is 9 and his son is 3 months old.  He used to be a travelling salesman but one year ago he was able to get his tricycle and now he can run his business from home.  We learned that a permit to operate a trike in Vigan costs 800 pesos/year but if you get your permit across the bridge (just outside the city centre) it is only 400 PHP/yr.  From what it sounds like you can operate from either place regardless of where you get your permit so...I cannot think why anyone would get there permit within Vigan limits.  When he dropped us off this afternoon at 3:00 he was totally prepared to come back to pick us up again at 7:00 p.m. to take us across the street to the Plaza to watch the fountain and light show.  I'm not sure if he was relieved or disappointed when we gave him the night off and assured him that we could make it across the street ourselves.

Lynda has just returned with mugs of 3 in 1 in hand....it is our new 'go to' pick me up.  LOL. So....until later.....

L & L